Traditional Geri Gugli Recipe
By Barnali Dutta | Published: January 10, 2014
Have you ever tasted ‘geri-gugli’? Clams or mussels nowadays are generally considered unpalatable by sophisticated people, though native people in India ate them extensively, as they were easily available around numerous ponds and riverbanks.
They are so tasty. Personally, whenever I go to a local market, my eyes are always searching for them.
Edible clams are often more or less rounded or oval. In Bengal they are called geri-gugli. Clams are eaten more in the coastal regions of India, especially in the Konkan, Kerala, Bengal and Karnataka regions.
In the Konkan region, clams are used to cook curries and side dishes, like Tisaryachi Ekshipi, which is clam cooked with one shell on. Clams or shellfish are locally called chipchip, and local fishermen sell them in rural markets. They have traditionally been food for poor families.
During the rainy season in Bengal, these are among the foods poor people have depended on when they could not get enough rice or bread. They would survive on Shapla, Shaluk (water lily), Shamuk (snails), geri and gugli. These foods are tasty and contain nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus.
As with shellfish, they should be checked carefully before cooking to make sure they are fresh and safe to eat.
Traditional Way of Cleaning Geri-Gugli
There is a traditional household method of cleaning geri-gugli before cooking. Put them in a large bowl or vessel with plenty of clean water and leave them soaked for some time. The mud and sediment gradually come out and settle in the water. Change the dirty water and wash them repeatedly with fresh water until the water becomes clear.
During soaking, watch them carefully. Traditionally, the geri-gugli that float to the surface are considered dead or no longer fresh. As they become lighter, they tend to float, and these should be removed and discarded. The live, heavier ones remain below and are kept for cooking. This simple indigenous kitchen technique has long been used for cleaning and sorting freshly collected geri-gugli before they go into the cooking pot.
Prep time: 30 min | Cook time: 15 min | Total time: 45 min
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients
- Salt-free fermented fish pickle (Puthi Shidol) : 2 to 3 tsp
- Clams or snails: 250 g
- Minced garlic: 8 to 10 cloves
- Chopped onion: 1 large
- Grated ginger: 1 tsp
- Green chillies: 4 to 5
- Mustard oil: 2 tbsp
- Turmeric and red chilli paste: 2 tsp
- Pounded cloves: 3 to 4
- Green cardamom: 3 to 4
- Cinnamon: 1 inch
- Salt: as required
- Sugar: 1 tsp
- Chopped coriander leaves for garnishing: 2 tsp
- Banana leaves: 6" × 6"
Directions
- Wash and clean the clams or snails thoroughly and immerse them completely in water. If any clams float or remain open, discard them.
- Boil the clams in fresh water. Discard any clams that do not open. Strain the water.
- Take the flesh out of the clams or snails.
- Heat the oil in a flat pan and fry the chopped onion until brown. Add garlic, ginger, red and green chilli paste, turmeric, salt and 1 tsp sugar. Fry until the oil begins to separate.
- Add the fish pickle and fry for another 5 minutes.
- Add the garam masala. Let the mixture cool for some time.
- Take a banana leaf, put the mixture on the leaf and make a pouch.
- Put the leaf pouches on a grill over low flame and roast for 5 to 10 minutes. Turn them occasionally.
- Let the banana leaf burn slightly, as this gives the dish its characteristic taste.
- Open the banana-leaf pouch and garnish with chopped coriander leaves.
- Serve with plain rice or fermented rice, such as amani or panta bhat.
In Bengal, the diet of rural people was based mostly on indigenous, local crops and livestock. Even poor families would often have a small plot of land, a small pond, one or two cows, four or five hens, two or three goats, and a few ducks as assets.
They would have a kitchen garden system that was less energy-intensive and eco-friendly. No fertilizer was needed. They could maintain much of their own livelihood system.
My kids were amazed while hearing the detailed story of this livelihood from my parents. While talking about changes in food habits, my 80-year-old father would say, “See how straight I walk. This is only because I consumed pure food and breathed clean air!”
Now it seems difficult to believe because we have reshaped nature according to our necessity. We never bothered about what would happen in the future, and now, due to globalization, we have adopted global foods, so our natural vegetation is also neglected.
Author's Review: ★★★★☆ 4/5
A traditional Bengali recipe worth preserving for its distinctive use of
Geri Gugli, fermented fish pickle and banana-leaf roasting.
Frequently Asked Questions About Geri Gugli
What is Geri Gugli?
Geri Gugli is a traditional Bengali dish made with clams or snails. In this recipe, they are cooked with fish pickle, onion, garlic and spices, then wrapped in banana leaf and roasted.
What fish pickle is used in this Geri Gugli recipe?
This recipe uses salt-free fermented fish pickle, or Puthi Shidol. You can read the traditional preparation here: Puthi Shidol fermented fish pickle .
How much Puthi Shidol is used in Geri Gugli?
This recipe uses 2 to 3 teaspoons of Puthi Shidol for 250 g of clams or snails.
Why is Geri Gugli roasted in banana leaf?
After cooking, the mixture is wrapped in banana leaf and roasted over low flame. The banana leaf is allowed to burn slightly, giving the dish its characteristic taste.
What is served with Geri Gugli?
Geri Gugli can be served with plain rice or fermented rice, such as amani or panta bhat.
Is pickled fish fermented?
Not always. Pickling and fermentation are different preservation methods. Fish may be pickled using salt, vinegar, spices, or brine without undergoing fermentation. However, some traditional fish pickles are also fermented. Fermented fish undergoes controlled enzymatic or microbial changes that develop its characteristic flavour, aroma, and texture.
What is fish pickle?
Fish pickle is a preserved fish preparation made using ingredients such as salt, spices, oil, vinegar, or brine. The exact method varies between regions and traditions. Some fish pickles are cooked and preserved with acid and oil, while traditional varieties may involve salting, drying, or fermentation. Therefore, a fish pickle is not necessarily a fermented fish product.
What is a fermented fish?
Fermented fish is fish that has undergone desirable biochemical changes through microorganisms, natural enzymes, or both. Fermentation changes the fish's flavour, aroma, and texture and is often combined with salting or drying for preservation. Traditional fermented fish products are found in many parts of Asia and other regions of the world.
Is fermented fish good to eat?
Properly prepared fermented fish can be eaten as part of the diet and can be a good source of protein. Fermentation also creates the distinctive flavours for which traditional fermented fish products are valued. However, safety depends on correct preparation, fermentation, hygiene, salt level, storage, and handling. Improperly fermented fish can present food-safety risks, so traditional products should be prepared and stored carefully.